DAEN 
METAL 
SPINNING
Metal forcing is a technique used to form metal around a mold. this technique is centuries old and is still used as a production technique today. You can think of lampshades but also cups and trays.

I was very curious how difficult this technique really was because I always hear it is difficult and the learningcurves is very high.

PREPARATIONS
HOW HARD
CAN IT BE?
Raw material
Before I can clamp the material in the forcer bench, the material must be cut to the desired size. And the material must be annealed.
1.
I started researching the technique. I received explanations from Mitchel how I could safely use the maschiene.
marked material
material cutout
annealed material
pdf
pdf
pdf
pdf
files I used.
2.
IS A BIGGER
DISC MORE DIFFICULT?
a larger disc are more vibrations which can cause faults, wrinkles and cracks in the material to appear more quickly.
outcome first larger disk
I am often a little too soft on the material. i did find out that it is trickier and much more time consuming than i thought beforehand.
Push the material even further around the mold. the further you stretch the material the softer the material becomes.
2.
TAKING A
STEP BACK 
I want to improve my feeling before trying bigger and trickier shapes.
WHEN DO YOU ANNEAL THE MATERIAL AGAIN?
the material becomes stiff because you move the cells in the material. by reheating the material you make the material flexible again.
3.
A NEW LARGE DISK
With high hopes, I prepared a slightly larger disk.
This disk is already going a lot better. by constantly re-annealing the shape I manage to turn reasonable neck.
4.
TURNING A CYLINDER MOLD 
The trickiest thing is to turn a cylinder for this the material must be stretched evenly and make a sharp angle.

To keep working slowly more difficult I started turning a small diameter disk.
The start was good unfortunately the stretching proved to be too much for the material and a crack appeared in the material.
TRYING A
NEW DISC 
A crack also developed in this experiment. This mold is not suitable for a relatively soft copper.
FINISHING THE BOWL
5.
A crack also developed in this experiment. This mold is not suitable for a relatively soft copper.
The residual material I cut away. And the material I re-polished.
6.
POLISHING THE TRAY 
By re-sanding and polishing the material, it shines again beautifully
6.
COLORING OF THE MATERIAL BY USING HEAT
by heating the copper at 200 Grade, permanent colors are created
10 min op c 200
15 min op c 200
20 min op c 200
30 min op c 200
FINAL RESULT 
INTERVENTIONS 
Now that I have been able to feel how this technique works this way, new ideas quickly come to me to try out.
I am very curious about what if the mold is not completely centered

Are you then still able to turn a shape
a shape? 
Can you turn closed shapes? 
So how do I get the mold out of my form? 
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